If you live in Hollywood, you probably know the split personality that is Melrose Avenue. East of Fairfax are the trendy, skater, streetwear brands, or the hipster trader outpost. These seem to be mostly inspired by the de facto performing arts highschool on the corner of Fairfax on Melrose that boasts a huge Flea Market just about every weekend. 

From Fairfax to La Cienega, the age and income brackets start to rise as you pass more skin care brands, galleries, the famous Glossier building and the infamous Pink wall. The eats become more trendy and the “LA” of it all begins to kick in. Whether it’s arguing about getting tar-tar at Catch Steak or trying to get a table at EP&LP, there’s no turning back, you are decidedly in the thick of it. 

Then, something interesting happens on that fabled stretch of Melrose between La Cienega and San Vicente and the fact that it’s partially a work in progress makes it all that more thrilling to watch. The area itself underwent a huge metamorphosis that was hindered by a world shifting event, which – if that isn’t the most LA thing I’ve ever heard, I don’t know what is! 

For a while the area was known as sort of a designer’s row, but for very, very rich people who were furnishing their quaint WeHo apartments for when they decided to come into the city. They’d send their designers to Restoration Hardware or to more bespoke boutiques inside of the Pacific Design Center, or the Apple store inside of the Beverly Center, and the city saw an amazing opportunity to promote pedestrian traffic along with more retail and eateries. Enter the WeHo Design District Streetscape project! Started in 2022, the project had a dream of reimaging the area as a more laid back haven.

The project and the area are having a bit of an identity crisis as the project struggles to compete with multiple setbacks and businesses struggling to find their footing, but nestled in the chaos is a lovely little Mediterranean vegetable-forward gem called Zinc Cafe and Market. 

Founded by John Secretan with popular locations in Laguna Beach, Corona Del Mar, Orange and the Arts District DTLA, Zinc Cafe and Market is a quaint oasis that feels like it’s on the side of the vine-covered Italian countryside. I had the pleasure of visiting, sampling some of the wares and speaking to John and General Manager Cesar Gonzalez who told me about the history of the delicious eatery and what they hope to bring to the neighborhood. 

John has been involved with food service and landscape architecture for over 35 years and has always wanted his own place. This combination made sense after growing up in Orange County where his innate love for simple comfort foods, nature and natural beauty were honed. While at Berkeley he developed that love into a passion for the cafe scene via Chez Panisse and Alice Walker. Being in the middle of it all and working in the industry, it just sort of clicked. 

“I love how food brings people together, especially when you create an environment that adds something special to it. So every one of our cafe’s chemistry has evolved around that and our big emphasis is to create a community.” John explained while I sampled a delicious pasta pomodoro with vine ripened roasted cherry tomatoes, roasted asparagus and rustic garlic bread all with a beautiful dressed garden salad on the side. I ordered the dish on recommendation of two of the servers working there who were happy to tell me their favorite items and more about anything I asked. 

I should note this happened before I identified myself as a writer or anyone different from another customer. They treated the customers before and after with the same sort of laid back enthusiasm that the cafe exudes. It’s as though every hour is siesta but given a sort of elegance and personality. I watched as more customers came in – most seemed to be repeat visitors – and interacted with the employees. I told John later how affable his hires were and he nodded, not unlike a proud papa. They often take in people who maybe aren’t completely qualified and develop them into competent employees. John is someone that believe in the power of a second impression and finds his employees have always been gracious and grateful. 

“Everybody loves my employees!” gazing quickly inside to his general manager Cesar who’d given me a tour earlier. “They say, how did you find them? And I wish I had this magic wand, but in reality we kind of have to take whoever walks through the door. Then I think it’s more our environment and our procedure of being good to them and caring for them that turns them into a nice person.”

“Or at least brings out the niceness that was in them,” I offer, and John agrees. 

“It brings out their best qualities and they tend to stay.” It’s such a small concept but it’s something a lot of larger retailers lose – the idea of being “nice”. It’s definitely not something that’s often rewarded, especially in the status laden avenue of Melrose in an area where Beverly Hills, Hollywood and West Hollywood collide. Nice, quiet and charming aren’t often the look, and Zinc is offering an oasis to challenge the status quo. 

The space is large enough for indoor and outdoor covered dining and there’s a fantastic patio with lovely idyllic fountains in the back. The back area can even be rented as event space and is often used for wedding receptions and graduations. Ultimately Zinc has the option to become a neighborhood spot, the only problem is that the area isn’t really there to service the “neighborhood”. Remember that identity crisis I spoke of earlier with the WeHo Design District Streetscape? The retail spaces were setup to accommodate the renovations and those renovations are still in flux. 

What this means is Zinc exists almost as a literal oasis. It’s nearly an island where parking is limited, walking is limited and there’s little to no public transit. But as I’ve come to learn, good things come to those who wait. Thankfully the project is still moving along and I believe in supporting a project especially during its growing pains. Despite the community being a little premature, Zinc has always supported the community. They recently had a Coachella night and for this Pride month they are donating a percentage of the proceeds from the sale of every pack of PRIDE cookies to the LA LGBT Center! The cookies are fantastic so you know the money is going to a great place, even if the calories aren’t!

In total Zinc is a fantastic spot for brunch, lunch, a light pre-show dinner or a long leisurely lunch. I will always advocate to support places that prioritize comfort, rest, good food and self care. That is Zinc Melrose in a nutshell. Go check it out today and tell them Stacey sent you!